In The Whole Scoop ~ Multi-Method Pants Fitting Class, we start with the basic framework of Top Down, Center Out (described by R. Collins in Threads magazine #218) by creating a fitted non-stretch waistband that is used to fit a single-leg muslin. I’ll show you how to work with “sticky pins” to help manage the fabric around your waistline & make drape fitting a snap. After smoothing the wrinkles we’ll finish with some traditional pants fitting techniques to achieve the fit you’re looking for. One of the things that may need to be adjusted is the position of the crotch curve, I’ll show you how to get it in the right spot using a fit adjustment that does not affect other vertical dimensions of the pattern like pulling it up at the waist or pleating out excess vertical length. Did you know that some of the “fitting” is hidden in the center front/center back seams? I’ll share how to take advantage of these edges to create pattern pieces that agree with your curves and allow the fabric to hang properly. You can also play with the ease along the leg, by adjusting both the side and inseams. Then I’ll show you how to transfer these adjustments to your pattern pieces before cutting out the second leg and sewing a whole pair of pants. The best part is, you’ll leave class with a pattern that’s
ready to sew pants with & the skills to solo pants fit yourself!
$50 kit fee includes Pattern, Fit Workbook, Pants Fabric for Fit Muslin
Supply List For Pattern Work:
Pattern paper
18” clear grid ruler
French curve
Paper scissors
Scotch tape in a weighted dispenser
Pencil and colored pencils to keep track of pattern adjustments
Supply List For Muslin Construction:
Sewing machine
Basic Sewing Supplies (Scissors, pins, seam ripper, tape measure)
All Purpose Thread
Non-Stretch Fitting Waistband (See Instructions for supplies)
Pre-class Homework:
Please make a non-stretch fitting waistband before class. You can make a straight or contoured waistband. If you’re making a contoured waistband, use the Sorcha Waistband Pattern Piece.
Here is a link to the video tutorial showing how to make a non-stretch fitting waistband
Here is a link to the Waistband Kits (optional if you don’t have the supplies to make one)
Requirements: | Kit must be purchased - 50 |
Instructor: | Jennifer Stern |
Instructor Bio: | Jennifer Stern Hasemann is the owner and designer at J Stern Designs. She has a solid background in pattern design and drafting, fit and construction. Her original line of fashion patterns features classic jeans, a cup-sized fitted shirt and a unique tee. Since then she's added an Easy Fit and Sew Collection of knit garments, Stretch Jeans, Knit Jeans and Happy Pants (non-stretch pants pattern and fit workbook). Her focus is drafting flattering patterns with easy to follow instructions and fitting techniques. She loves to share a wide variety of sewing, serging, fitting and construction techniques via her J Stern Designs YouTube Channel where she currently has over 100 video tutorials. Additionally, she teaches online at BluPrint.com and Patternreview.com and in person around the country. |
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